Wednesday, February 16, 2011

When invited to a dinner party . . .

It is the norm to bring a hostess gift with you when invited to dinner.  The question of what to bring is often addressed by a bottle of wine.  That of course leads to the next question as to what type of wine to select as the gift.

The answer is quite easily answered though I am a bit reluctant to provide the answer.

Why am I reluctant?

Well, since you asked, the answer to the question is to select a Riesling.  And, the reason that I am reluctant to provide the answer is that there are too many people becoming reacquainted with the joys of drinking Riesling. 

The growing popularity of Riesling combined with the dollar’s fall versus the euro have combined to cause a significant increase in the cost of Riesling from Austria, France (Alsace) and Germany and a reduction in the availability in the U. S. of better brands from those countries.

Yes, in the good old days, way back almost three or four years ago you were able to go to your favorite wine store and pick up an excellent bottle of Riesling from a very good vintage for $20 to $30 without fail.  A weekday bottle of a nice Riesling could be had for $9.

While I am very happy for the winemakers in Austria, France and Germany it is a bit of a setback for us Riesling lovers that our heretofore largely overlooked wine is being recognized for the superb varietal that it truly is and has been for a very long time; the curse of Blue Nun notwithstanding.

There is no doubt that the myriad of complexities that are present on the label of Riesling produced in Austria and particularly in Germany can cause migraines and tend to make potential buyers move on to Chardonnay.

You will find that a simple step to purchasing German Riesling is to look at the alcohol content on the bottle.  If you are bringing the Riesling as a hostess gift i.e. it is, in theory, intended to be consumed within a short period of time and is to be a match for most food, go with alcohol content above 10%.  This tends to give you a “dryer” wine that can be enjoyed immediately and will match up with most dinner menus.

In the U. S. there are several notable areas that produce world class Rieslings.  The Finger Lakes Region of New York and Washington State are at the head of the class.

For weekday meals a sure bet, vintage to vintage, is the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Dry Riesling from Washington.  

The grapes for the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Dry Riesling are sourced from various vineyards throughout Washington with the majority coming from the Yakima Valley. 
This wine is widely available for $12 a bottle.

The Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Dry Riesling opens with peach and apricot scents and gives you the dry and crisp tastes that are classic Riesling.   There is a nice bit of acidity and crispness to the finish.

The 2009 Standing Stone Vineyards Riesling is produced from grapes grown on the winery’s vineyards located on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes Region of New York.

The wine has a tropical fruit forward presentation with crisp tropical fruits on the palate and a touch of acidity that balances the presentation out very nicely.

The 2009 Standing Stone Vineyards Riesling is available for $13 a bottle and can be found at many wine stores.

Standing Stone is a producer that you should keep an eye on in coming years.  The Ice Wine produced by Standing Stone has already garnered a devoted following.

The 2008 Trimbach Riesling from Alsace continues its consistent performance vintage to vintage from this major producer.  The grapes for this wine are sourced from various vineyards throughout Alsace.

Priced at $17 a bottle this wine is widely available.

There are aromas of citrus and flowers; the taste is dry with a balance of fruit and a touch of stone.  The finish is long and pleasantly refreshing.  This is a very food friendly wine and an excellent introduction to Alsatian Rieslings.

For a weekend meal or special occasion search out the Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2006; or for that matter, any vintage of this wine that you are able to get your hands on.  

With this wine you will experience a significant change in approach, richness, and concentration versus the three wines suggested for weekday meals.  It is an excellent introduction to the finesse style of German Auslese level Rieslings.  

Expect to spend in the $35 range for a bottle but, trust me, it is well worth the investment. 

Weingut Dr. Loosen Brothers is one of the leading wineries in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region of Germany.   The Loosen family has assembled a collection of vineyards in the most desirable areas of the Mosel Valley and has worked these vineyards for over 200 years.  Ernst Loosen took over management of the winery in 1988 and is regarded as one of the leading advocates of Riesling in the world.

The Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2006 is produced from vines that are grown in blue slate with very little top soil.  This gives the wines a minerality and acidity that balances the peach and lime fruit flavors.

The finish is wonderfully long and fresh.

This wine can be drunk now or aged for up to 25 years should you be able to resist the urge to enjoy it in the near future.

The Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2006 matches very well with spicy Asian cuisine   

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

More snow, more ice and more off the mark weather forecasts . . .

On a dreary evening in early February Zinfandel is an excellent choice to bring a bit of warming delight to another wise forgettable day.  Forgettable, that is, at least in terms of the weather.

Did you ever wonder why weather people get paid good money to be right about 60% of the time? 

Zinfandel is a grape varietal that many folks in the United States, particularly in California, claim as their own.  Research has indicated that Zinfandel is really the Primitivo grape of southern Italy.  In fact, Zinfandel and Primitivo is actually the grape Crljenak Kastelanski from Croatia.  All things being equal, as it turns out, it is far easier to say Zinfandel than it is to say Crljenak Kastelanski.  Have you ever heard anyone ask for a bottle of Crljenak Kastelanski?

Nonetheless, it can be said with significant justification that Zinfandel became a world class grape in California.  Initially, immigrants from Italy planted Zinfandel during the Gold Rush in order to produce a cheap red wine for the miners. 

Zinfandel is a very nice choice when you are having hearty foods, spicy foods, red meat done on a grill (steak or burgers), gamey meats and roast turkey. 

With Zinfandel you are able to enjoy wine made from truly “old vines”.  That being “old vines”  in relative terms to vines found in the United States.  There are a significant number of Zinfandel vines that were planted over 100 years ago.   Look for bottles labeled “old vines” and enjoy the intensity of the wine produced from these vines.     
Zinfandel is not a meek and mild grape.  Well, most of the time anyway.  The notable exception to this statement is White Zinfandel.  Rest assured we are not discussing White Zinfandel in this piece.  However, it may well be that the popularity of White Zinfandel helped to save Zinfandel vines from being pulled out and replaced with other varieties during the 1980’s.

Notable areas in California for Zinfandel production are Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo County,  Anderson Valley in Mendocino County and in Napa County.

For weeknight meals try the Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel.  Readily available at $11 a bottle it is a steady performer from vintage to vintage and a good introduction to an “old vine” Zin.   The Bogle Family has been farming in California for six generations and their winery is located in Clarksburg, Yolo County. The 2008 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel is sourced from vines ranging from 40 to 80 years of age located in San Joaquin County and Amador County.  Amador County is the site of the gold rush and some of the earliest plantings of Zinfandel in California. 

The Bogle Old Vine gives you a deep purple color with the concentrated fruit that is typical of that found in “old vines”.  There is a black raspberry leading edge and a rather lengthy but pleasing finish.

The fact that this winery is not located in the expensive Napa and Sonoma Counties permits the Bogle family to produce nice wines at nice prices.         

Another choice for weeknight meals is Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee.   Priced in the $15 range this is a great buy that is easily found in wine shops. 

Four Vines Winery is located in Templeton, San Luis Obispo County.  The Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee is a multi appellation Zin sourced, for the 2008 vintage, from grapes grown in Amador, Lodi, Paso Robles and Sonoma Counties. 

The 2008 Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee greets you with berry and spices on the nose, blackberry and summer berries on the first sip and a smooth finish with a bit of oak present. 

Our last weeknight selection is the 2008 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County.  The Pedroncelli family purchased this winery in 1927. Today the fourth generation of the family is practicing sustainable wine growing in their vineyards located in Geyserville. This site has some vines which were planted in 1904 and fruit from these vines is included in this wine.  The 2008 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley contains 5% Petite Sirah.  The addition of Petite Sirah to Zinfandel is a technique used by several notable Zin vintners.     

This wine can be purchased at many wine stores for $15 a bottle and is a reliable purchase year to year.

This Zin has a very dense purple-red color with a bouquet of summer blackberries and spices particularly the black pepper you find in nicely made Zinfandel.  The finish is a balance of tannin and fruit / spices and is long and smooth.   

Our weekend Zin recommendation is the 2009 Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel.  This wine is in the $25 per bottle range and is widely available.

The Seghesio family has been in the wine business since the late 1800’s and their winery is located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County. 

This Zin has a very dark purple color with wild berry aromas.  Your first taste will give you raspberries, blackberries and briary spices that lead to a long, smooth finish with nice dusty fine tannins.  

For your special occasions treat yourself to a bottle of the 2009 The Prisoner by Orin Swift Cellars.

Recently purchased by Huneeus Vintners Orin Swift Cellars is located in Rutherford, Napa County.  Orin Swift sources grapes from a number of wineries in Napa Valley to produce The Prisoner.

The Prisoner for 2009 is 51% Zinfandel, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 % Syrah, 7% Petite Sirah, 3% Charbono, 1% Grenache and 1% Malbec.  The average price for the 2009 The Prisoner is $38 a bottle and production is such that this wine is reasonably available for purchase.

The wine has a dark, dark ruby color.  The bouquet is a fruit forward of blackberry, black currant, black cherry and a touch of pepper.  On first taste it lets you know that it is a very big and bold wine.  The finish is quite long lasting with soft tannins.

Since we first enjoyed this wine starting with the 2004 vintage of The Prisoner we have never been disappointed.  Even with the price point approaching $40 it remains an excellent choice and superior example of what a skilled vintner can do with Zinfandel.      

Thursday, January 20, 2011

What did you just say?

At a recent fund raising dinner that I attended I was swirling a glass of a quite mediocre pinot noir in a futile effort to bring the wine to some semblance of drinkability. A young lady drinking a rather neon bright red concoction of alcohol asked me why I was swirling the glass of wine.

I replied to her that I was volatizing the esters.

Apparently this is illegal in the state of domicile in this great country from which this particular young lady originated.  Or so it seemed to me when the rather large, rather short tempered, rather protective, rather unhappy behemoth who was accompanying the damsel quickly made his introduction to me.

What did you just say to her? He asked in somewhat less than a civil tone. The can of Old Milwaukee he was holding was a definitive clue that I was not currently communicating with a member of Les Amis du Vin.     

In a somewhat hesitant voice I again advised that I was volatizing my esters.

How the heck was I to know that her name was Esther?  Who names their daughter Esther anymore?

And, in retrospect, I can, with a certain degree of unnecessary remorse, concede that volatizing can, after 10 or 12 Old Milwaukee’s perhaps sound like something else.

The moral of this story:  be aware of where you are, who you are with, who you are speaking to and perhaps how big their companion is before you utter that fateful phrase, volatizing your esters, in public.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Snow, ice and freezing rain. . . .

The weather in the Northeastern part of the U. S. thus far this winter has been a dream come true for the Florida Board of Tourism.

For the majority of folks in the ice belt, however, a temporary escape from the clutches of Old Man Winter is not in their plans.

So, after cleaning snow and ice off the car (for the second time in the day) as one starts the ride home from work one’s thoughts turn to a meal and a wine for a winter work night.

Grandmom Julie’s Old World Pasta & Peas is an excellent and easy meal for such a wintry eve. 

With this cold weather recipe we have two “weekday wines” and one “weekend wine” from Tuscany to recommend. 

The 2006 Piccini Chianti DOCG is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% Ciliegiolo from wine maker Antonella Conti.  The Piccini family has owned this estate located near the town of Castellina in the Chianti Classico zone since 1882. The family has been a leading advocate of the Sangiovese varietal.

The 2006 Piccini Chianti DOCG is priced at $9 per bottle and is widely available. You will get consistent tasting results from vintage to vintage from this producer at a very affordable price level.

The medium rustic red color is typical of what you expect from Chianti.  A fruit forward aroma is headlined by black cherries. The palate is fresh with firm tannins that make this a very easy drinking wine with our Old World Pasta & Peas.

Castello di Gabbiano is located in San Casciano Val di Pesa in the Chianti Classico zone.  The 2006 Gabbiano Chianti DOCG is primarily Sangiovese with small amounts of Trebbiano, Canaiolo and Malvasia blended with the Sangiovese. 

This wine can be found for $8 at many wine stores.  Again, our tasting results have been reliable from vintage to vintage.

The color is ruby red with blackberry and cherry fruit flavors. The bouquet is slightly fruity with a hint of pepper. Tannins are firm and the wine is a nice match with our Old World Pasta & Peas recipe or, should you make the decision to pick up dinner on the ride home, a pizza with extra cheese and mushrooms.

For a weekend dinner with friends featuring Grandmom Julie’s Old World Pasta & Peas we recommend the 2006 Chianti Classico DOCG from Castello di Bossi.

The 2006 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico is 100% Sangiovese.

Castello di Bossi is located in the town of Castelnuovo Berardenga and is owned by the Bacci family who has revived this estate to its former glories. 

This wine runs $16 a bottle.  Availability is very good.  The Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico has proven to be of high quality at a very reasonable price for the past four vintages tasted.

The 2006 Castello di Bossi is a darker ruby color.  The bouquet is a blend of dark cherries, a hint of raspberry and a bit of an oak. There is a nice balance between tannins and the smoothness of the wine. 

This wine would be a good buy at $30 a bottle much less at $16 a bottle.

Below is Grandmom Julie’s recipe for Old World Pasta & Peas to warm you up on a cold winter night.

Enjoy!



Grandmom Julie’s Old World Pasta & Peas

Ingredients

2 Tblsp Olive Oil
2 Cloves Garlic, chopped fine
2 Tblsp Onion, chopped fine
1 28 oz Can Crushed Tomatoes
Salt/Pepper to taste
Basil/Parsley to taste
1 Lb Thick Pasta, broken into 2” pieces (Perciatelli)
16 oz Frozen Peas

Heat 1 Tblsp olive oil & add 1 clove garlic & 1 Tblsp onion.  Sauté until garlic & onion are golden brown.

In the meantime, heat tomatoes, basil, parsley, salt & pepper over medium heat until boiling; lower temperature & simmer.  Add peas, continue to simmer for 10 minutes.  When garlic & onion are ready, add to tomato mixture & continue to simmer.

Heat the other tablespoon of olive oil & add the other clove of garlic & other tablespoon of onion until golden brown.

In the meantime, bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil for the pasta.  Add olive oil, garlic & onion to boiling water & then add broken pasta.  Cook pasta according to directions.  However, when draining pasta, reserve salted water.

Add pasta to tomato mixture along with at least 3 cups of pasta water & continue to simmer for another 15 minutes.  If necessary, add more pasta water.  Consistency should be in between a soup & a stew.

Garnish with grated Parmesan or Locatelli Roman Cheese.

Serve with crusty Italian Bread.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Weekday, Weekend & Occasion Wines

An archeological expedition in southern Armenia has recently uncovered the oldest known wine-making tools.  The artifacts which include a wine press are 6,000 years old and were used to make a red wine.

It appears that the wine was made to be drunk as a part of mourning ritual.

There is no truth to the rumor that scrolls found near the wine press contained mixed numerical ratings and reviews of the wine that was produced.

So, here we are, 6,000 years later and wine is still a vital part of our daily lives.

We will categorize our wine recommendations into weekday, weekend and special occasion wines with an occasional foray in to cellar selections.

Weekday wines will be those wines that are meant to be drunk with your weeknight / work night meal and cost $7 to $15 per bottle.  These wines are thought of as cost effective, enjoyable, complimentary wines to your weeknight meal.  

Weekend wines are those wines that you enjoy during your more complex dinner menu enjoyed with friends over a time casual period. These wines will cost in the $12 to $25 per bottle price range and can be “noticed” and “commented upon” during your meal.

Special occasion wines are those reserved for holiday meals, birthday dinners, anniversaries, and so on.  Our price range for these selections can extend up to $75 per bottle.

Cellar selections are those wines which may not be quite ready to enjoy upon release and can be called upon to be special occasion wines in the future.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Welcome

“It’s the economy stupid” is a phrase expounded by political pundits before during and after each election in recent times.
It is also a phrase that those involved in every level of the wine industry are all too familiar with since the recent (do not call it a depression) economic downturn has impacted the U S and the rest of our world’s economies.

The good news for wine drinkers in these troubled economic times is that a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon previously priced at $150 can now be had for $75.

The bad news for wine drinkers is that many of us still have considerable consternation at the thought of spending $75 for a bottle of any type of wine much less a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley.  That is not to say that I have not in the past without pause spent $75 or more for a wine that I thought merited that price.

That was in the good old days, way back in 2007 and 2006 when the economy was bullish and bright.

Now in 2011 the average wine consumer is likely to continue the buying trend that crystallized in 2010.  Price points for this class of consumers appear to be settling in to the $10 to $18 per bottle range with a few forays in to the $20 to $25 range for the ubiquitous special occasion bottle of wine.

What we will do with our initial postings is to present our readers with a selection of wines that we feel offer the best value within various price ranges.

We will not initially place numerical ratings on the wines that we discuss nor will we attempt to give you a migraine with pedantic and / or erudite descriptions of the wines. 

We will also try to match the wines to the seasons of the year and we will also occasionally offer some suggestions on food pairings that we have enjoyed with the wine that we are discussing.

Your feedback is welcomed and appreciated.

We look forward to sharing the wonderfully interesting and varied world of wine with you.