On a dreary evening in early February Zinfandel is an excellent choice to bring a bit of warming delight to another wise forgettable day. Forgettable, that is, at least in terms of the weather.
Did you ever wonder why weather people get paid good money to be right about 60% of the time?
Zinfandel is a grape varietal that many folks in the United States, particularly in California, claim as their own. Research has indicated that Zinfandel is really the Primitivo grape of southern Italy. In fact, Zinfandel and Primitivo is actually the grape Crljenak Kastelanski from Croatia. All things being equal, as it turns out, it is far easier to say Zinfandel than it is to say Crljenak Kastelanski. Have you ever heard anyone ask for a bottle of Crljenak Kastelanski?
Nonetheless, it can be said with significant justification that Zinfandel became a world class grape in California. Initially, immigrants from Italy planted Zinfandel during the Gold Rush in order to produce a cheap red wine for the miners.
Zinfandel is a very nice choice when you are having hearty foods, spicy foods, red meat done on a grill (steak or burgers), gamey meats and roast turkey.
With Zinfandel you are able to enjoy wine made from truly “old vines”. That being “old vines” in relative terms to vines found in the United States. There are a significant number of Zinfandel vines that were planted over 100 years ago. Look for bottles labeled “old vines” and enjoy the intensity of the wine produced from these vines.
Zinfandel is not a meek and mild grape. Well, most of the time anyway. The notable exception to this statement is White Zinfandel. Rest assured we are not discussing White Zinfandel in this piece. However, it may well be that the popularity of White Zinfandel helped to save Zinfandel vines from being pulled out and replaced with other varieties during the 1980’s.
Notable areas in California for Zinfandel production are Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo County, Anderson Valley in Mendocino County and in Napa County.
For weeknight meals try the Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel. Readily available at $11 a bottle it is a steady performer from vintage to vintage and a good introduction to an “old vine” Zin. The Bogle Family has been farming in California for six generations and their winery is located in Clarksburg, Yolo County. The 2008 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel is sourced from vines ranging from 40 to 80 years of age located in San Joaquin County and Amador County. Amador County is the site of the gold rush and some of the earliest plantings of Zinfandel in California.
The Bogle Old Vine gives you a deep purple color with the concentrated fruit that is typical of that found in “old vines”. There is a black raspberry leading edge and a rather lengthy but pleasing finish.
The fact that this winery is not located in the expensive Napa and Sonoma Counties permits the Bogle family to produce nice wines at nice prices.
Another choice for weeknight meals is Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee. Priced in the $15 range this is a great buy that is easily found in wine shops.
Four Vines Winery is located in Templeton, San Luis Obispo County. The Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee is a multi appellation Zin sourced, for the 2008 vintage, from grapes grown in Amador, Lodi, Paso Robles and Sonoma Counties.
The 2008 Four Vines Old Vine Cuvee greets you with berry and spices on the nose, blackberry and summer berries on the first sip and a smooth finish with a bit of oak present.
Our last weeknight selection is the 2008 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County. The Pedroncelli family purchased this winery in 1927. Today the fourth generation of the family is practicing sustainable wine growing in their vineyards located in Geyserville. This site has some vines which were planted in 1904 and fruit from these vines is included in this wine. The 2008 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley contains 5% Petite Sirah. The addition of Petite Sirah to Zinfandel is a technique used by several notable Zin vintners.
This wine can be purchased at many wine stores for $15 a bottle and is a reliable purchase year to year.
This Zin has a very dense purple-red color with a bouquet of summer blackberries and spices particularly the black pepper you find in nicely made Zinfandel. The finish is a balance of tannin and fruit / spices and is long and smooth.
Our weekend Zin recommendation is the 2009 Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel. This wine is in the $25 per bottle range and is widely available.
The Seghesio family has been in the wine business since the late 1800’s and their winery is located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County.
This Zin has a very dark purple color with wild berry aromas. Your first taste will give you raspberries, blackberries and briary spices that lead to a long, smooth finish with nice dusty fine tannins.
For your special occasions treat yourself to a bottle of the 2009 The Prisoner by Orin Swift Cellars.
Recently purchased by Huneeus Vintners Orin Swift Cellars is located in Rutherford, Napa County. Orin Swift sources grapes from a number of wineries in Napa Valley to produce The Prisoner.
The Prisoner for 2009 is 51% Zinfandel, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 % Syrah, 7% Petite Sirah, 3% Charbono, 1% Grenache and 1% Malbec. The average price for the 2009 The Prisoner is $38 a bottle and production is such that this wine is reasonably available for purchase.
The wine has a dark, dark ruby color. The bouquet is a fruit forward of blackberry, black currant, black cherry and a touch of pepper. On first taste it lets you know that it is a very big and bold wine. The finish is quite long lasting with soft tannins.
Since we first enjoyed this wine starting with the 2004 vintage of The Prisoner we have never been disappointed. Even with the price point approaching $40 it remains an excellent choice and superior example of what a skilled vintner can do with Zinfandel.
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